Multiple Chassis Plate Thickness's

[nickharding]

Hi guys.

After spending a few days looking over the book before I order my steel to construct the chassis, I thought that I would go into my fathers work this morning and cut out all of the plates and mounting points ready for when the chassis is made.

Starting on page 173 all the way through to 184 showing all the diagrams for all the plates that need to be made .. None of the diagrams tell you how thick the plate should be?

Could someone please advise as I am hoping to go into work with him first thing tomorrow morning and start making them!

If there are different thickness's for different plates please let me know!

Cheers. All the best.

[voucht]

Hi,
Yes, the book says the plate thickness on the top left corner of each drawing. When it is written "3 plate" it means 3mm thick plate (most of the plates). "1 plate" means 1mm thick plate (ie CP11), 5 plate is 5mm plate (ie : CP10) and so on. it is not the number of plates you need to cut, it is the thickness
Hope this will help.
Regards.
Sylvain

[nickharding]

Thank you very much for making this clear.

You have now given me lots of work to crack on with tomorrow

Many Thanks!

All the best.

[HandyAndy]

I would recommend that you make CP16 out of 3mm plate instead of the quoted 1mm

Also, depending which rear tub you intend to fit...ali or GRP then some of the plates are NOT needed when fitting a GRP tub, eg..the CP11,s, SS1,s CP25,s & CP9,s. ( just saves cutting what you might not use )

Now.....lets see when you work out where the CP24 plates go ....its not clear from the book, but they do get fitted.

Cheers
andy

[nickharding]

Hi Andy,

What is CP16 used for? And why would you recommend this?

As long as it doesn't make the fitting of parts any different then I will take your advice!

Will remember about CP24 when i come to it. If I happen to get stuck, expect a message! Wont be starting the build this month, want to get all the plates made ready. Just making sure that the amendments don't affect any of the plates. I.e thickness and sizes.

As far as I can see and have read, the plates all stay standard (apart from CP16 which you recommended.)

Cheers

[HandyAndy]

Originally Posted by nickharding

Hi Andy,

What is CP16 used for? And why would you recommend this?

As long as it doesn't make the fitting of parts any different then I will take your advice!



Cheers

CP16 is the top plate of the pedal box/ & also carries the steering column bush that is fully welded to the chassis frame which you then bolt the pedal box to it, it won,t effect any "fitting" of other parts but WILL ensure your pedalbox doesn,t flex when braking,

Afterall... the seperate pedal box instructions are to fabricate the pedal box from 3mm.....no point then bolting that to a 1mm plate ......I,ve seen CP16 plates warp when being welded into the chassis when they were made from 1mm plate....not good.....go for 3mm plate.

cheers
andy

[SeriesLandy]

I would agree with andy on cp16. I changed mine after I had welded in a 1mm version and it was really hard to remove all the weld as you can't get the grinder in very easily.

[nickharding]

Brilliant. Thank you very much guys. I have made the change in writing in the book. Will hopefully be one of the plates that I will construct tomorrow.

Cheers.

[ozzy1]

I would also recommend making all the pedals from 5mm plate.

[baz-r]

as said the plate for the front of the foot well needs beefing up 3mm is a little exessive in my point of view and you will find welding any 1mm sheet to box of a thicker wall tricky like the handyandy flatpacks
thinking about it all the 1mm plate parts could do with been 2mm realy