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  #11  
Old 24th April 2012, 08:48 PM
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Davey Davey is offline
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Hi Nick, yes you were wearing goggles in the first pic, well safety glasses anyway but the shield on te grinder is flipped back so as much use as an ashtray on a motorbike and in none of the pictures were you wearing any skin protection. I'm trying not to sound like an old woman here (probably not succeeding either ) but personal safety in the workshop is something you start to realise is a good thing as you get older. I trust you are fully covered up when welding?

D.
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  #12  
Old 24th April 2012, 08:49 PM
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I found ear protectors are also useful when using the angry grinder. They make cutting a lot less tiring.
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  #13  
Old 24th April 2012, 11:50 PM
nickharding nickharding is offline
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Davey - Yeah I have my own elbow length welding gloves. Things are great!

alga - Yeah my father brought me some some ear plugs and they really helped, although the radio ended up blaring (without realising) and I was constantly when my mother asked what I wanted for tea. haha!

I ground those nuts off from those plates tonight and welded the holes back up and ground them level again. All I need to do is make and weld the suspension mount to them and they will be finished and another pair ticked off the list.

If i can get these made tomorrow after work before going to the girlfriends, I should be able to put some pictures up for you all.
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  #14  
Old 24th April 2012, 11:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickharding View Post
All I need to do is make and weld the suspension mount to them and they will be finished and another pair ticked off the list.
without sounding like i,m teaching grandma to suck eggs

just take your time with the upper suspension bracket on the underside of the plates, as you have already found, its quite easy to get the positions mixed up etc , being left & right side of the car etc .

Thought I,d add this, with ref the brackets for these plates......if welded in the wrong position it often doesn,t become apparent until you try to fit the rear shocks & by this time you have already welded the CP3/CP4 "boxes" to the chassis & so it makes it hard work to cut the brackets outs , I,ve seen it happen too ( not on my build )

I agree with the other guys...safety is sooooo important, but its easy to take it for granted UNTIL it goes wrong , stay safe & enjoy the build .

cheers
andy
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Last edited by HandyAndy : 25th April 2012 at 12:09 AM. Reason: extra info
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  #15  
Old 25th April 2012, 09:55 AM
nickharding nickharding is offline
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Cheers Andy,

Yeah i will take extra time when marking out where the bracket goes. Check and double check before welding up.

Hopefully will have some pictures later on tonight with some progress.
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  #16  
Old 25th April 2012, 01:36 PM
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skov skov is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HandyAndy View Post

Thought I,d add this, with ref the brackets for these plates......if welded in the wrong position it often doesn,t become apparent until you try to fit the rear shocks...
I'll second that - despite checking several times I still welded one of my plates in the wrong way round and couldn't get the top shock bolt in

On the PPE side of things, I'm sure I was once told it was a really bad idea wearing gloves when using a bench grinder
Something to do with the chance of the gloves getting entangled and dragging your fingers in with them...

Great start though, keep up the good work
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  #17  
Old 25th April 2012, 04:14 PM
nickharding nickharding is offline
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Right have just got home. Going to mark out on the plates where I think the brackets should go and post a pic up to confirm they are in the right position. I can picture in my mind where I think they should go. Might be wrong, soon see.....
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  #18  
Old 25th April 2012, 06:57 PM
nickharding nickharding is offline
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Bumped into a problem already.

Looking at this diagram..



You can see that RS15 which is 19x19 sits against the suspension mounting bracket. After measuring it out, I found that this is not the case and don't understand where I have gone wrong? .. Following the diagram I checked that RS15 was 19x19. Next after following the diagram to see which side RS15 went on, I measured 19mm down the one side, this has been marked with a scriber as you can see in the pic below. These are accurate measurements.





Next I used the diagram at the top to place a pop mark to show the centre of the bracket. This is also accurate as I have checked many times.

I then checked the spec of the suspension mounting brackets and saw that they were 40mm wide. So from the pop mark i measured 20 both sides. As you can see from the close up of the ruler, there is a gap between 0 and the rs15 mark.

Does the bracket actually sit against RS15? Or is it just a misleading diagram?

Cheers.
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  #19  
Old 25th April 2012, 09:32 PM
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Nick,

don,t worry you are NOT going wrong, its the diagram

Rather than take the measurement from the side face of RS15 to the center of the SHOCK absorber bracket, its best to use the 97mm from the base line & 48mm from the side line of the plate.....

don,t use RS15 as a guide, as you have found its quite easy to come up with conflicting measurements even tho in the end it does work out, but I would suggest that anyone doing this for the first time is to ignore the RS15 part.

The shock bracket does not touch RS15 when in the correct position, the bottom cad picture of page 173 you,ll just see that there is a small gap between the two parts .

also, don,t miss that the RS15 part sits 3mm lower from the TOP edge of the plate as this is the position that part CP6 then sits flush against the end of RS15 & creates the "box " effect that you are making out of all the plate parts.

The bottom edge of the diagram once turned over ( when the box is made ) sits on top of part SB2...........
I,ll explain ...
CP3 is 150mm .....RS15 is 122mm....3mm gap for part CP6.....and the 25mm of part SB2 = 150mm.

The diagram is a little misleading until you actually make the make the parts, but this also may help...........the dimension sketch from page 173 ( as in your post above ) is in fact for the NEARside of the car but needs to be turned around so that the bottom edge becomes the top edge when placing on top of the SB2 part..........this is where the diagram is confusing

I hope this helps, its not easy to write down & explain.

cheers
andy
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  #20  
Old 25th April 2012, 10:43 PM
nickharding nickharding is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HandyAndy View Post
Nick,

don,t worry you are NOT going wrong, its the diagram

Rather than take the measurement from the side face of RS15 to the center of the SHOCK absorber bracket, its best to use the 97mm from the base line & 48mm from the side line of the plate.....

don,t use RS15 as a guide, as you have found its quite easy to come up with conflicting measurements even tho in the end it does work out, but I would suggest that anyone doing this for the first time is to ignore the RS15 part.

The shock bracket does not touch RS15 when in the correct position, the bottom cad picture of page 173 you,ll just see that there is a small gap between the two parts .

also, don,t miss that the RS15 part sits 3mm lower from the TOP edge of the plate as this is the position that part CP6 then sits flush against the end of RS15 & creates the "box " effect that you are making out of all the plate parts.

The bottom edge of the diagram once turned over ( when the box is made ) sits on top of part SB2...........
I,ll explain ...
CP3 is 150mm .....RS15 is 122mm....3mm gap for part CP6.....and the 25mm of part SB2 = 150mm.

The diagram is a little misleading until you actually make the make the parts, but this also may help...........the dimension sketch from page 173 ( as in your post above ) is in fact for the NEARside of the car but needs to be turned around so that the bottom edge becomes the top edge when placing on top of the SB2 part..........this is where the diagram is confusing.

I hope this helps, its not easy to write down & explain.

cheers
andy
Hi Andy,

Thanks for your reply. Very easy to understand what your saying. Can picture it in my mind as reading it.

Just to confirm, this is the 3mm gap you was talking about?



Also, on the part where you said .. "its best to use the 97mm from the base line & 48mm from the side line of the plate"

Going from the previous pictures i posted of the plate, with RS15 down the left side, is that the position the plate should be in to follow your measurements above?

Also, following your measurements, does that pinpoint the top left corner of the bracket?

Hope this makes sense.

Had a spare hour tonight so made the 4 brake line mounts and the 2 radiator mounts

Cheers.
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